Anokhi Fashion Lifestyle Entertaiment

Although it is true that some of us are genetically blessed with better skin and are able to maintain a youthful look for longer, it is also true that there are secrets that everyone can use to get fabulous skin. I am often asked about the basics of good skin care for each age group, be it the 20s, 30s or 40s. Cosmetic science has evolved such that there are tried and tested solutions for every age. Like most good things, the solutions are simple. This column is dedicated to discussing these three decades of one’s life individually in order to give you a solid scientific primer to good skin care.

20s

Main Issues: Acne breakouts, loss of some skin radiancy, blackheads and whiteheads.

Causes: Due to hormones, after-effects from the teenage years and the effects of pregnancy changes, the skin can have a tendency to form both blackheads and whiteheads. Also there is a slowdown in the natural exfoliation combined with the stresses involved in new jobs, new partners and an extremely busy time in one’s life.

Strategy: If you can incorporate good skin care at this early stage in your life, you will reap ample rewards later. Sun avoidance should be a priority. And use a minimum 30 SPF sunscreen daily. If you have pimples, see a skin specialist to treat the problem with a combination of oral and topical antibiotics. He or she may also recommend a low-dose birth control pill. The first step in skin care is to use a non-creamy cleanser containing an alpha or beta hydroxy acid (glycolic acid fits the bill). In order to keep the skin clear, exfoliate regularly (I prefer medical-strength glycolic acid creams but microdermabrasion is also an option), and minimize the use of creamy moisturizers as they only block the pores. Rich moisturizers that feel good really are the cause of many a young person’s skin concerns. They are only to be recommended for paper-thin elderly skin. Once the skin is clean, well-exfoliated and has some sun protection, it’s time to use good quality mineral makeup.

30s

Main Issues: Wrinkles, increased pore size and less radiant skin.

Causes: Due to slower cell renewal, skin starts to look duller. The previous healthy radiant shine is no longer quite there. Also, ultraviolet light damage to the face now begins to appear as the skin begins to wrinkle around the eyes and forehead. This is due to early collagen damage beginning to show.

Strategy: As always, there are two aspects to your skin care: at-home care and in-office care. At home, use a good chemical-based exfoliating cream (i.e. glycloic acid, eight percent) daily, and sunscreen. To avoid breakouts, use mineral-based makeup. In office, treatments may be limited to a series of chemical peels or microdermabrasion. Chemical peels use glycolic acid, lactic acid or betahydroxy acid which is left on for a few minutes and then neutralized. The skin will look a little flushed for a few hours but you will be rewarded with smooth skin for a month or so. Microdermabrasion involves blasting skin with fine aluminium oxide crystals then sucking up dead cells to leave your complexion radiant. If you are concerned with lines around the forehead or eyes, then it is not too early to consider Botox. When done by an experienced physician, you should get a natural, younger-looking appearance.

40s

Main Issues: Deeper wrinkles, nose-to-mouth lines, spider veins and change in pigmentation.

Causes: Once again, slowed cell renewal leads to dull skin. In addition to this peri-menopausal hormone, changes can lead to loss of elasticity and thinning skin. Gravity also plays its part in facial aging.

Strategy: Over and above regular exfoliation (work up to 15 percent glycolic acid) and sunscreen, it is vital to start to treat the loss of elasticity. Retinol is a good ingredient to add into your nightly skin regime. Also, at this time a matryxl-based eye serum can work well to reduce aging in that area. In the doctor's office, besides chemical peels and Botox, it is time to consider fillers. Fillers are like padding; they work to replace the intrinsic facial fat that is lost with age. There are many types of fillers available; however, most doctors recommend temporary fillers that last nine months to a year. These can treat lipstick lines, thinning lips, as well as marionette lines (nose-to-mouth). For pigment damage to the skin, those with lighter skin can opt for laser treatments or IPL (Intense pulse light) and for those with darker skin, there are skin lightening creams that can be specially formulated for your skin type.

BY: DR. DEEPA TAKHAR / PUBLISHED: FALL 2007 ISSUE