Anokhi Fashion Lifestyle Entertaiment

The Perfect Ten

High on glitz and style quotient, the recently concluded WIFW showcased the very best of haute couture in India. With flirty silhouettes, flouncy skirts, linens and refreshing whites taking centre stage, the spring-summer collection resonated with various interpretations of what will be ‘haute’ next year, and India’s best designers had models sashaying down the ramp in a bid to woo both national and international buyers. ‘Ten’ was the underlying theme, with ten new designers given an opportunity to show their work on the WIFW catwalk; ten new models who graced the ramp and a host of other initiatives to promote the various segments of the fashion fraternity.

A Fashion Fiesta

Setting the tone for the five exhilarating days of fashion to follow, Rajesh Pratap Singh’s spring collection re-emphasized the concept of less is more. He opened the show with his signature simplicity and impeccable cuts for dresses in light-weight fabrics. White is a designated favourite for spring-summer 2008 as was evident in all collections this season. Femininity was at its best and the emphasis was on form and cut this year. Slight embellishments were used to emphasize empire bust lines and intricate detailing. Other designers, including Rina Dhaka, used traditional motifs and embroidery to bring out the richness of the garment.

The acclaimed Tarun Tahiliani offered subdued hues with emphasis on pleated fabrics to create simple shapes. Actress Shilpa Shetty walked the ramp for this well-respected, globally-known designer. Keeping true to the prevalent theme of simplicity, the fabulously talented yet low-profile designer Raghavendra Rathore presented an outstanding collection with clean silhouettes in tunics and kurtas. His treatment of fabric and texturing drew praises from all.

Geometric cuts also seemed to be the operative theme for the following season. Walking proud in a Varun Bahl creation, actress Celina Jaitley sashayed down the ramp presenting Bahl’s special feature for Essenza di Wills that consisted of spring colour schemes in greens, khakis and mauves. Extravagant duo Falguni and Shane Peacock’s collection was synonymous with luxury prêt-a-porter. Bold prints and lustrous fabrics was their style statement.

Various other designers, both established and novice, treated fabrics differently. Some chose to walk the simple, structured line with emphasis on varying light tones while others created a melange of Indo-Western effects by using bright colours starkly against a soothing subdued background.

Apart from this, the focus on empire waistlines continues through to next season along with a return to the 60s trend of long flowing sleeves. Designers Priya and Chintan opted to pair opposite forms together to great effect such as loose, flowing tops with skinny pants or structured tops with beautiful, exuberant skirts.

A Tribute to Rohit Khosla

Marking the end of WIFW was Rohit Bal’s finale, Siyaahi (blue ink), inspired by the artistic, architectural and cultural influences of Constantinople. Calling this a tribute to iconic Indian designer Rohit Khosla, the collection featured both men and women’s wear. Khosla is often remembered as the fashion icon who gave form to the concept of the ‘Indian fashion industry’ as it stands today. He died at the young age of 36. Bal’s show, both creative and expressive, and yet innately Indian as they come, paid appropriate homage to the fashion icon. As the show began, models wearing whites and other neutral shades walked out voluminously dressed. The second segment of the show featured the theme colour–indigo blue–with other shades of blue and charcoal. To wrap up the gala event, Ritu Kumar and Malini Ramani, amongst others in the fashion fraternity, walked the ramp for Bal, which was in jarring contrast to other designers who employed celebrity status to garner attention.

The World’s their Stage

Despite much appreciation and accolades, many international buyers (amounting to approximately 80 in all) felt that Indian designers have a delicate, tight rope to walk. With Indian fashion on a global platform, many designers have adapted their collections to reflect more of a western emphasis. While this is good for some, it also backfires as the international market loses out on a resolutely Indian touch. Flaws in cuts and a lack of originality in some creations were also sighted as drawbacks. Added to this, some critics observed that when it comes to embellishments, there has to be a degree of restraint as not all foreign markets are open to over-embellished wear. Having said that, WIFW was still a good reminder of how far the Indian fashion industry has come, and the majority of international buyers were impressed with the use of colour and fabric.

BY: SAVIA RAJAGOPAL/PUBLISHED: WINTER 2008/5TH ANNIVERSARY ISSUE