Anokhi Fashion Lifestyle Entertaiment

BY PAULOMI PATEL

*published FALL 2009

There is a revolution of sorts taking place on the Indian catwalks. A new generation of designers is forming the new face of Indian fashion. In their work, we see an obvious shift from the popular, opulent and often over-the-top style of yesteryear patriarchs to a more modern and minimalist approach to design. Chic, precise, utterly relevant and never retro, their ensembles celebrate the joie de vivre of fashion with an unabashedly laid back attitude, very unlike what has been seen in the past on the runways in India. Slowly, but surely, their refreshingly buoyant and brilliant styles have caught consumer’s imagination on the home front and abroad. The million dollar question, however, is this: is change here to stay? Only time will tell. But for now, in the fickle fashion industry where new designers—often like their creations—are just a passing fad, it's easy for an unknown to go unappreciated. However, these up-and-comers are too gifted to ignore.With their breathtaking designs, signature styles and courage to create exactly what they like (from goth-glorious-gowns to avant-garde headgear), these designers have proved that they are here to stay.

One look at Swapnil’s latest collection and it’s easy to seewhy he is the current darling of the glitterati.Charmingly detailed and dramatically luxurious, his designs have been seen on various celebs,most prominently onBollywood actor Priyanka Chopra who can’t seemto get enough of Swapnil’s gowns for her various red carpet appearances.

A ride to the dark side: His 80s inspired red, black and gold hued Fall ’09 collection titled, Brit Goth brings tomind the romanticismof Italian architecture.
Mood: Dark, accentuated by the music that accompanied Swapnil’s models - his dark princesses, as he likes to call them- on theLakme FashionWeek runway. However dark his inspiration may be, one thing that could not bemissed throughout this collection was the designer’s trademark luxe factor.
Details/Features: Gold detailing, tartan printed satins, cascades of ruffles and delicate quilting, gorgeously combinedwith origami-style draping - Swapnil’s long, flowing ensembles spell luxury.
Fabrics: Tissues, chiffons and satins.
Not to bemissed:His custom-made, gladiatorial claw-heeled shoes.We’ve already placed our order on his foot candy!

Tête-à-tête with Swapnil:
Worst fashion nightmare?
“Seeing a girl sporting bell bottompantswith a tiger print top – disaster!”
One wardrobe essential?
“Not the clichéd little black dress. Instead, opt for a fit to flare little black dress as it works on all body types.”

Nachiket is an innovator.His ageless designs stemfromsmart fabric innovations andwith their impeccable quality, they have been turning heads ever since this 28- year-old designer appeared on the Indian fashion circuit a fewyears ago. Core:Nachiket’s inspiration come fromminerals, crystals andmineral formations. The colour palette is derived fromthe point of inspiration as are the patterns for embroidery, cutwork and other details.

Mood: Celebratory,making it refreshing andwelcoming in the current gloomy atmosphere.
Details: Cutwork, embroidery, textures, appliqué –Nachiket’s flight of fantasy has it all.
Fabrics: Silks, dupion-silks, lurex, chiffons, georgettes, organza and velvets.
Not to bemissed:His gorgeous hand-embroidered three-quarter sleeve coatdress. Not only is it a timeless classic,Nachiket’s versionwon’t exactly break the bank either.

Tête-à-tête with Nachiket:
Worst fashion nightmare?
“Being a fashion victim and carrying designer fakes.”
One wardrobe essential?
“Awell-fitting pair of jeans.”

There’s something deliciously sexy about clean cuts and simple styles and this is proved nowhere better than inAsmita’s latest collectionwhere she has dressed her customer - a contrarianworld travelerwho’s independent and spirited – in her typical diverse,mixed andmatched quirky style.

The max mix: Her collection is amix of global substances but shemakes it a point to stick to her roots. For Fall ‘09, her trademarkKalamkari prints – the traditional natural dyed designs fromher Southern Indian hometown of Hyderabad – have been juxtaposed beautifullywith elements inspired fromthe turn of the century painter,GustavKlimt,who had a penchant for combining the visually disparate designs.
Mood: Luxurious bohemian.
Details/Features: There was a generous amount of sartorial do – quilted coats, larger than life floral appliqués,well-cut, detailed bottoms and goddess-like flowing tops inscribedwithAsmita’s nativeTelugu calligraphy.
Fabrics: Tartan checks, antiqueBanaresZari and traditional Indian khadi.
Not to bemissed: Her flowing brocade pants.

Tête-à-tête with Asmita:
Worst fashion nightmare?
“Wearing flats on a formal evening dress andwearing leather in summer – a big NO!”
One wardrobe essential?
“A well-fitting pair of jeans.”

With a focus on the comfortable and the practical,Rahul’s eponymous label is gaining prominence for his streamline designs accentuated with subtle twists. The Uniform: Rahul’s fall ’09 collection points out the two different aspects of a uniform: the military uniform immediately brings tomind images of conflict and war, where as a school uniform suggests innocence and hope for the future. Mood: Austere and classic.

Details/Features: Folds, bends, twists and nips –Rahul’s collection is a lesson in fabric geometry.
Fabrics: Cottons, silks, light-weightwools and various knit blends.
Not to be missed: His clean, silhouette-hugging skirts.

Tête-à-tête with Rahul:
Worst fashion nightmare?
“Anything that is uncomfortable.”
One wardrobe essential?
“Classic blue jeans,well-fitting of course!”

Milliner ShilpaChavan is trying to bring back a hat culture in a country that may have had a vibrant head-gear culture historically, but shies fromwearing any hats today.

Growing up watching Mary Poppins slides on her hand-held slide viewer, being in awe of Indian godswith their surreal crowns and a fascination for archaic knickknacks from Mumbai bazaars – these are the things thatmake Little Shilpa. Atrainedmilliner and perhaps the first Indian of the kind, she shifts between various roles as a costume stylist, jewellery designer and an installation artist with designs that are one-off pieces.

Tête-à-tête with Shilpa:
You have used interesting materials in your designs,what influences you?
“My designs are a representation of howI feel orwhat influencesme at that point. It’s never driven by any trend forecast or norms that I need follow. I likemy pieces to be individualistic as they carry their own story.My inspiration comes fromall that they call street and havingworked as a stylist helps tomanifest that image in a more realistic and edited form.My pieces are like a canvas as they personify an aspect of my visual influence fromobservation to execution.”

What is your favourite creation?
“My army cap installation (see above image).This is by farmy absolute favourite. It’s the complete and obvious example ofwhere I stand,who I amandmy design philosophy.The ideawas to create one installation piece using just one thought. It took several days to figure out the balance on one’s headwithout compromising on the design and the basic idea.”